The air conditioning and heating equipment was installed by the HVAC (Heating, Ventilating, and Air Conditioning) contractor listed in Crosswinds Homeowner Service Directory.

All systems provide the climate control of your home and

consist of a thermostat to control the temperature, a basic

furnace unit to heat the air, a filter, plus a fan unit to distribute

and circulate air throughout the home via ducts and registers.

Air conditioners have an outdoor unit that transfers heat

and moisture out of the home.

It’s important to read the Manufacturers’ Service Manuals,

operating instructions, maintenance guidelines, warranties,

and energy-saving recommendations. Where appropriate,

fill out and return the Warranty Registration Cards to the manufacturer.

Note: As equipment and technologies frequently change, the Manufacturers’ Service Manuals will supersede all recommendations and procedures contained in this guide.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

An extended annual service contract may be available from your HVAC contractor. These extended contracts provide seasonal check-ups of the heating and cooling components, plus periodic cleaning. The advantage is that scheduled service may reduce system failure by preventing problems before they occur.

Before Calling For Service:

1. Ensure that the thermostat is properly set.

2. Gas Furnace.

A. Check the electrical circuit breaker and switch at the E-box to be sure they are set to the ON position.

B. Check to ensure that the door on the front of the gas furnace, which has a safety switch, is securely closed.

C. Check to ensure that the gas supply line valve is in the OPEN position.

Air Filter

The air filter, located adjacent to the furnace fan unit, helps reduce the flow of dust into the air. As the filter collects dust, it reduces the system’s efficiency and must be either cleaned or replaced. Crosswinds has installed one air filter in each filter location unit and will, at the pre-closing

orientation, demonstrate proper filter installation, cleaning, and replacement procedures. The cleaning, replacement, and maintenance of air filters is the homeowner’s responsibility.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Monthly filter cleaning or replacement will provide cleaner air, improve air flow, and help reduce utility costs. To remove and clean or replace filters, turn the furnace and fan off using the thermostat control, then pull out the old filter and clean, or insert a new one. The directional arrows on the replacement filters indicate air flow direction to ensure proper installation. Replacement filters are available at hardware stores.

Thermostat

The thermostat controls the entire heating and cooling system.

Air conditioning thermostats provide a switch to control operation

of the indoor fan. If this switch is placed in the ON position, the

indoor fan will circulate air continuously. This may be desirable

during periods when neither heating nor cooling is required. The

ON position will not affect the normal operation of the furnace or

cooling unit as the furnace or cooling unit will cycle on and off as

needed to maintain the temperature selected at the thermostat.

In the AUTO position, the indoor fan will only operate during operation of the furnace or air conditioner as required at the temperature selected.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

To maximize energy efficiency and minimize utility bills, set the thermostat to a comfortable level and leave it there. Then set the fan to either the ON or AUTO position, as recommended by the manufacturer’s service manual.

It is also important to understand that air conditioning units cannot be turned off during the day and then be expected to cool the home quickly when turned on late in the afternoon or early in the evening. A home and its furnishings absorb large quantities of heat that must be removed before the air temperature will fall. If the unit is allowed to run as needed during the day, it will remove this heat before it is absorbed into the building and furnishings. Typically, it takes an equal or even a lesser amount of energy to maintain a steady temperature than it does to attempt to lower the temperature once it has reached an uncomfortable level.

Air Distribution

The heating and cooling system can be adjusted and balanced to meet individual temperature preferences. When the right balance is achieved, utility bills and wear and tear on the heating system are reduced.

Duct Work and Dampers: Ducts carry and distribute conditioned air to each room. Some air ducts are fitted with adjustable dampers that open to increase or close to restrain air flow to major parts of the home. Please consult a HVAC Contractor for correct positioning or adjustment of dampers.

Registers: Two kinds of registers are used: air supply registers, located on the floor or ceiling, deliver warm or cooled air into the room; and air return registers, located on walls, return air from the room back into the air handler fan to be re-heated or re-cooled.

To regulate temperatures on different floors or rooms during different seasons, adjust the air supply registers by partially opening or closing them, thus restricting or moving additional air into each room.

If your lower level is too cool in the winter, start closing upper level registers until the desired results are obtained. If your upper level is too warm in the summer, close lower level registers until the desired results are obtained.

Interior doors in each room are undercut to allow return air to circulate throughout each room when the doors are closed.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Vacuum supply and return registers to ensure they remain dust-free. Check that registers are not blocked by draperies, furniture, or other obstructions that restrict normal air flow.

Air Conditioner

If your home is equipped with an air conditioning system, the compressor is located at the exterior of your home. The system provides cool air by removing heat and humidity.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Keep the exterior compressor free from obstructions. Due to the delicate nature of some of the compressors components, please keep children and pets away from the compressor unit.

Appliances

General Overview

Your Crosswinds home can be equipped with a variety

of appliances, and may include a gas or electric range,

oven, microwave oven, range hood, dishwasher, refrigerator,

garbage disposal, washing machine, or electrical/gas dryer.

Upon moving into your home: review the Manufacturers’ Service

Manuals for operation and maintenance instructions, test all

appliances for proper operation, and file the manuals in a

convenient location for future reference.

Also, complete and send the warranty cards to the manufacturer.

Many manufacturers offer a toll-free service number to answer questions about appliance problems and operation. For future reference, record these numbers in Crosswinds Homeowner Service Directory.

For appliance repair protection that extends beyond the manufacturer’s warranty period, you may want to consider a service contract available through an appropriate contractor.

If you purchase your own appliances, carefully measure existing appliance openings to ensure proper fit. Check that doorway widths leading to the final appliance location are wide enough to move the appliance through. Should the laundry closet have a bi-fold door entrance, it is advisable to install a top loading washer and dryer.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Before Calling for Service: If an electrical appliance fails to work, implement the following checklist before calling the appropriate electrical, HVAC, or plumbing contractor. Otherwise, you may be charged for an unnecessary service call.

1. Check that the appliance is plugged in. Do not use GFCI controlled outlets for appliances.

2. If the appliance is plugged into a wall-switched electrical outlet, make sure switch is On.

3. The circuit breaker in the panel box controlling the appliance should be in the On position. See Circuit Breakers in the Electrical Systems Section.

4. Some appliances come with their own separate fuses or circuit breakers. Review the Manufacturer’s Service Manual for exact location, then check for proper setting.

Attic

General Overview

The attic space, located immediately below the roof, is constructed with a truss or rafter system.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

The attic truss system is not engineered to support additional weight and should not be used for any storage purpose.

Crosswinds installs a variety of attic vents to remove excessive heat and moisture from the attic space. These include ridge vents, gable louvers, roof louvers, soffit vents and baffles where the roofs meet. Do not cover these vents with insulation or any other materiall.

Insulation on the attic floor protects the rooms below it. If the insulation is moved, it will leave gaps between the insulation panels and may obstruct the attic vents. Always replace moved insulation back to its original position.

Cabinets

General Overview

Kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanity bases are selected for their attractive appearance, durability, and ease of care. With proper maintenance, the cabinets will remain serviceable and attractive.

Note: Carefully examine all cabinets during the Pre-Closing Orientation. Scratches, chips, or cracks will not be repaired after occupancy unless specifically noted on the Pre-Closing Check List.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Wood Cabinets: Wood cabinet tone, grain, and color variations are normal, and reflect the natural characteristics of real wood.

To clean the exterior of wood cabinets apply the same gentle care you would give any fine wood furniture.

Cabinet mounted coffee makers are not recommended since the rising steam will damage solid wood and wood veneer, causing fading or delamination. For the same reason, position regular coffee makers out from underneath the upper cabinets and near the front of the counter.

Laminate Cabinets: Clean the exterior of laminate with a soapy cloth or sponge, or use a non-abrasive liquid household cleanser for more stubborn stains. There are one-step cleaning products available for laminates that clean, reduce streaking, and leave surfaces polished. As with all cleaning products, carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Cabinet Shelves: Flat shelves are not designed to hold excessive weight. Keep canned foods, flour, sugar, and heavier products on the bottom shelf of the base cabinets. If desired, apply contact paper to shelves to protect them against scratches and water stains.

Drawer and Hinge Care: Check the hinges at least once a year for proper alignment and tightness, using a screwdriver to make necessary adjustments. Check drawers for easy movement and apply a silicone spray to the drawer guides, should sticking occur. Close the drawers to protect the drawer guides and to keep the contents clean.

Repairing Nicks and Scratches: Hardware stores offer color matching putty, stains, and polymer fillers to cover and repair cabinet nicks and scratches.

Concrete

Foundations

Two types of foundations, basement or slab-on-grade, are used to build your Crosswinds home. It is important to understand that concrete is a porous, brittle material that will expand, contract, and crack as the result of temperature changes, shrinkage, and stress. Hairline cracks that may appear on foundation walls are usually cosmetic, as opposed to structural. Foundation cracks are common and are often caused by shrinkage or climate. Rod holes are small holes left in foundation walls from the framework used to place the concrete walls. These holes are plugged and sealed on the interior of the wall.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Drainage: Proper water drainage around the foundation will keep the basement dry, and eliminate unnecessary stress on the foundation wall. The drain tile and a sump pump are also used to drain ground water away from the foundation. Check periodically to ensure that all drains are clear of debris, that pumps are operating, window wells are clean, and that the soil around the foundation properly slopes away from the home. See Controlling Foundation Water Penetration in the Water Infiltration & Condensation Section.

Moisture Control: Slight moisture condensation on basement walls and floors is normal. Proper ventilation will assist in reducing this condensation. Open basement windows during clear, dry weather and close them during damp, humid weather. If excessive humidity develops, consider using a dehumidifier to remove unwanted moisture from the air. See Water Infiltration and Condensation Section.

Basements and Garage Slabs

Due to the large size of concrete basement and garage slabs, hairline cracks less than ¼” inch in width or vertical displacement are common, and are caused by shrinkage, expansion, and contraction. These cracks are normal and it is best to leave them alone, since attempts to fill the cracks will not stop the expansion and contraction.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Clean concrete floors with a solution of five tablespoons of baking soda to a gallon of water. Before using the cleaning solution, wet the floor with clear water and loosen dirt with a steel brush or scraping blade.

Porches And Steps

In most cases, exterior concrete cracks are due to the freeze and thaw cycle or slight settlement. Small cracks are also common to the normal curing process of concrete.

Warranty Caution: Concrete surfaces, under normal usage and weather conditions, should not disintegrate to the extent that the aggregate is exposed. Even during the warranty period,

Crosswinds is not responsible for concrete deterioration caused by abuse or negligence, salt, chemicals, heavy vehicles, or other factors beyond our control.

Warranty Note: Concrete repairs requiring new material may not match the color of the existing material. Color variations are normal.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Shovel snow and ice promptly from porches, steps, and stoops. Should icy conditions exist, apply sand. Do not apply de-icing salts or chemicals to any concrete surface. Repeated thawing and freezing with salt and chemicals can damage brick, concrete, and mortar, as well as kill grass, shrubs and trees.

Driveways and Sidewalks

Driveways are subjected to heavy use and severe weather conditions. You may experience slight cracking and movement in the driveway slab due to the freeze-thaw cycle, vehicular traffic, and soil settlement. It’s common for exterior poured concrete to rise and fall due to the freezing and thawing of the soil on which they are poured.

Due to the large size of concrete driveways and sidewalks, hairline cracks less than a ¼” in width or vertical displacement are common, and are caused by shrinkage, slight settlement, or expansion and contraction. These cracks are normal and it’s best to leave them alone, since attempts to fill the cracks will not stop the expansion and contraction.

Warranty Caution: Concrete surfaces, under normal usage and weather conditions, should not disintegrate to the extent that the aggregate is exposed. Even during the warranty period, Crosswinds is not responsible for concrete deterioration caused by abuse or negligence, salt, chemicals, heavy vehicles, and/or other factors beyond our control.

Warranty Note: Concrete repairs requiring new material may not match the color of the existing material. Color variations are normal.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Salt Damage: Salt and other de-icing chemicals will cause severe damage to exterior concrete surfaces. Even when salt is not used, it can be tracked in from the street on feet, tires, or accumulated under the fenders of your vehicle. When left to melt, this highly concentrated salt causes pitting, spalling, and possibly the exposure of aggregate. Although unsightly, this surface deterioration eventually stops and does not continue past the contaminated areas.

Weight Precautions: Keep excessive weight, such as firewood, landscaping material, lumber, and moving vans, off the driveway and sidewalks to prevent cracking.

Electrical Systems

General Overview

The electrical system in your Crosswinds home is designed

for safe, trouble-free service and meets both local and national

electric code requirements. Electrical wiring, switches, outlets,

and circuit breakers were installed by a licensed electrical contractor.

Warranty Caution: Any addition, alteration, and/or modification

to the original electrical system installation, even if performed by

a licensed electrical contractor and inspected by the appropriate

local authorities, voids all applicable warranties.

Warranty Note: Be aware that not every electrical power problem is due to problems within the home’s electrical system. Utility companies experience a variety of situations that affect power supplies, including power surges and interruptions, peak overload periods, and even total shutdowns.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Electrical Safety Cautions: Do-it-yourself electrical wiring is dangerous. Improper electrical repairs can endanger the lives of your family and jeopardize your homeowner’s insurance in the event of fire or electrical injury. Always use a licensed electrician to make electrical repairs, adjustments, and additions.

Power Failure: If the power goes out, check first to determine if neighbors are also without power, and if so, contact the utility company. Before attempting to reset the circuit breakers, check that power has been restored to the area. If neighbors have power, check the main circuit breaker in the panel box. See Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines under Circuit Breakers..

Electric Meter Box

The utility company installed an electric meter box to measure your electric usage for billing purposes. Their invoice is based on kilowatt-hours used over a given time period, with a kilowatt-hour being the energy expended by 1000 watts for one hour. Should you have questions about meter box functions, please contact the Customer Service Department at the utility company.

Circuit Breakers

Electrical wiring and appliances are protected by circuit breakers to stop circuit overloading. The main circuit breaker is located in the electrical panel box, and if tripped for any reason, entirely cuts off all electricity to the home. The smaller circuit breakers within the same panel box control appliances, wall switches, lighting, and the heating system, and each switch is clearly marked as to what it controls.

Caution: Do not tamper with the electrical service entrance cable that provides power to the service panel.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Circuit Tripping Causes and Remedies: Thunderstorms, lightning, and power failures can cause circuit breakers to trip. If only your home is affected, try to reset by switching the breaker to full OFF, then fully back to the ON position. If this does not reset the breaker, or if the breaker continues to trip, do not continue. Resetting the breaker repeatedly can damage the panel box, wiring, or appliance that it controls. Call the Electrical Contractor for service inspection.

Overloaded circuits can also cause tripping. This occurs when too many small or large appliances are used on one circuit. To reduce the load, remove plugs of appliances that may cause the overloading, then reset the breaker as described above.

Appliances that require large electrical loads may need a licensed electrical contractor to add additional wiring to accommodate the load.

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI)

GFCI electrical outlets prevent electrical shock, and are installed in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, basements, and exterior areas where water may be present. GFCI receptacles are sensitive to power surges and interrupt power under certain conditions to prevent injury.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

GFCI outlets are often wired in a series. For example, the bathroom GFCI outlet controls the bathroom, and may possibly control other outlets throughout the home. Taking this example

further, if the electrical outlet in the garage is not functioning, check the GFCI in the bathroom. Some homes have multiple GFCI outlets, so be certain to inspect and reset the affected outlet(s).

When a GFCI controls more than one outlet, an overloaded bathroom outlet will also shut down all connected outlets. For this reason, do not plug refrigerators, freezers, or electric garage door power cords into GFCI outlets.

If a GFCI receptacle is not functioning, press the Reset button on the wall plate to restore proper operation. If that does not work, check and reset the circuit breaker in the panel box first, then press the GFCI Reset button. If the outlet still fails, it may indicate a short in the appliance. If other appliances will not operate, a licensed electrician should be contacted and the GFCI replaced.

To test GFCIs, press the Test button on the receptacle. The outlet should not perform. To reset, press the Reset button.

Outlets and Wall Switches

If an electrical outlet does not work, check first to make sure the outlet is not controlled by a wall switch. The outlet may also be part of a GFCI and you should check to see that all GFCI resets are in the ON position. If the outlet still does not operate, contact a licensed electrical contractor.

An electrical outlet or light switch on an exterior wall may produce a slight draft, allowing cold air to be drawn into the room. Draft protection pads that help reduce cool air drafts can be installed by a qualified electrician or are available at hardware stores.

Pre-wired Telephones and Cable Television

Crosswinds homes are pre-wired for telephone, and in

some communities are pre-wired for cable television.

If you experience problems with phone connections or

cable TV reception, contact the Electrical Contractor who

installed the wiring as listed in the Crosswinds Service Directory.

Light Fixtures

There are many light fixtures located throughout your home. These fixtures enhance the beauty of your home, as well as provide for safety and security.

Many of these light fixtures are brass and are treated with a clear protective coating to provide durability. However, the coating for exterior brass fixtures is not resistant to the elements, and over time may gradually tarnish and take on an antique appearance.

Caution: The use of indoor bulbs in exterior light fixtures is not recommended. In addition, light bulbs with a higher wattage than the maximum wattage stated on the light fixture may result in fire.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Interior and exterior lighting fixtures require periodic homeowner maintenance to preserve the finish. Cleaning with a non-abrasive soap and buffing with a soft cloth is the recommended initial care these products require.

Smoke Detectors

The smoke detectors in your home are pre-wired to the main electrical system, and may include a built-in battery backup.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Test the detectors monthly, and clean and vacuum the openings of the smoke detectors as needed. Visually inspect the clear button of the test switch to see that the indicator light is

glowing. To test the alarm, press the “TEST” button for about ten seconds, or until the horn sounds loudly. Do not use an open flame to test the detector.

The battery unit will emit a low-frequency beeping noise if a malfunction occurs. In this case, replace the battery. Caution must be taken in replacing the battery: be sure to disconnect the “Power” plug from the smoke detector without pulling on the wires as this will damage the smoke detector and void your warranty. Once the plug is pulled you may change the batteries, which should be done at least once a year.

Exterior Finishes

General Overview

Exterior finishes are applied once the exterior framing is complete. Exterior finishes may include wood, vinyl, stone and/or brick or veneer, or a combination of these materials. Maintenance and upkeep for different materials require varied cleaning techniques. Please refer to each exterior finish heading for the recommended methods.

Vinyl Siding

Vinyl siding is installed on the exterior of your home. Normal installation requires loose nailing of the siding to allow for expansion and contraction that occurs due to changing temperatures and sun exposure.

Under normal conditions, vinyl siding may emit a “ticking” sound as it expand and contracts. Light rattling and banging noises are also normal in light to moderate winds.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Vinyl siding can be washed with a mild detergent and water. Avoid using thinners or abrasives that may harm the finish.

Warranty Note: Repairs or replacements of vinyl siding may not match the color of existing materials. Color variations caused by weathering effects are normal.

Note: When using a charcoal or gas grill, keep a safe distance from your vinyl siding as the heat emitted from the grill will melt the vinyl.

Exterior Wood Trim

Wood trim is installed to add an accent to the exterior of your home. Wood is a natural product and may contain imperfections and variations in grain and texture. The soffit and fascia, commonly called eave or roof overhang, are located under the roof overhang and on porch ceilings. The fascia is used behind gutters and to cover gable trim boards. Over time, the wood soffit and fascia will require painting.

Warranty Note: Due to the vulnerability of wood to the elements, cracking and/or splitting of wood may occur. Crosswinds cannot ensure that wood trim repairs requiring new material will match the color of the existing material. Color variations caused by weathering effects are normal. For example, knots in the wood will bleed through and is considered normal.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Keep the garden sprinklers away from the home and do not plant shrubbery too close to the walls. Periodically inspect the exterior to be sure that wood trim joints and seams are tightly caulked. Loss of seal can cause water damage.

Brick And Stone Veneer

Upon completion, the brick is cleaned with a solution. Slight variations in size, color, and placement create the textural interest that contributes to the look of a brick or stone exterior. Variations in mortar color are also common to brick and stone work. Surface chips and cracks add a weathered appeal, while small hairline cracks in the mortar are caused by shrinkage. Minor brick chipping, cracking, and mortar shrinkage are normal.

Warranty Note: Brick or mortar repairs requiring new material may not match the color of the existing material. Color variations are normal. New mortar will weather and blend more closely with existing mortar as time passes.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Bricks can be cleaned with a soap and water solution, or by gently scrubbing with a non-abrasive household cleaner and a stiff brush.

A white powdery substance that may appear on masonry walls is called efflorescence. It is composed of water soluble salts, originally present in masonry material, that are brought to the surface when water evaporates. Efflorescence is a natural characteristic of masonry materials and is considered normal.

Fireplace

General Overview

If your home is equipped with a factory-built fireplace, it is very important that you read the operating instructions carefully.

Note: Do not burn pressure treated wood, scrap lumber, Christmas trees, trash, cardboard, plastic, or any flammable liquid material such as gasoline. Burning these items is extremely hazardous and will cause brick and flue liners to crack. This will void your fireplace warranty.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Please refer to your fireplace instruction booklet before operation and modify any aspect of the fireplace.

A clean, unobstructed fireplace and chimney are important for safe fireplace operation. A fireplace cleaning company should inspect the fireplace and chimney annually for appropriate cleaning of materials that may build up over time, such as soot. Inspect the refractory and firebrick liner for loose or cracked firebrick and loose mortar.

Flooring And Finishes

General Overview

Your home may be finished with a variety of flooring materials, including carpet, resilient vinyl, hardwoods, and ceramic tiles.

Carpeting

The carpet is durable and requires minimal care. Color variations and shading may be noticeable, and depend upon the surface texture and pile fiber of the carpet. It also must be understood that

all carpets will be seamed. Seams may be more or less noticeable depending on cut, style, pile, and lighting of the room.

Warranty Note: Carpet repairs requiring new material may not match the color of the existing material. Crosswinds cannot be responsible for manufacturer dye-lot variations or for discontinued carpet patterns.

Note: Carefully examine all carpeting during the Pre-Closing Orientation. Carpet damage or stains will not be repaired after occupancy unless specifically noted on the Pre-Closing Check List.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Frequent vacuuming and immediate stain removal are primary carpet care steps. For complete instructions, please refer to the manufacturer’s cleaning recommendations.

While normal vacuuming will only remove loose fibers from carpet yarns, an occasional tuft may be lifted above the surface. Do not pull out the tuft; just snip it off the length of the other tufts using scissors.

Color fading caused by sunlight can be minimized by closing the draperies during the day, or by using shear draperies to reduce incoming sunlight.

Resilient Floor Coverings

Resilient floor coverings come in either 6-foot or 12-foot wide sheets, may be installed in foyers, kitchens, bathrooms and laundry areas.

Review and follow the manufacturer’s cleaning and care recommendations. Using a cleaning solution other than that specifically recommended by the manufacturer will void the manufacturer’s warranty. Do not wax a no-wax floor.

Warranty Note: Resilient floor covering repairs requiring new material may not match the color of the existing material. Crosswinds is not responsible for manufacturer dye-lot variations or discontinued resilient patterns. The method of repair will be determined by a Crosswinds Quality Assurance Specialist. Patches that are not visible to the eye while standing in normal light are acceptable.

Note: Carefully examine all resilient floor coverings during the Pre-Closing Orientation. Scratches, gouges, dents, and other damage will not be repaired after occupancy unless specifically noted on the Pre-Closing Check List.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

For resilient floor cleaning and maintenance guidelines, please refer to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Mop up bathroom water spills from showers and baths

immediately. Water seeping into the mastic through the

seams and under the baseboard trim can cause seam

separation and lifting. A silicone caulk, available at

hardware stores, is recommended for use at tub and floor

joints to minimize this problem.

Attach furniture protectors to the bottom of furniture legs

to protect the resilient flooring from scuffing and surface

damage. Be aware that high heel shoes may damage

resilient floor coverings.

Hardwood Floors

Hardwood floors are pre-finished at the factory with a baked-on wax coating or a urethane coating. Wood floor tone, grain, and color variations are normal, and reflect the natural characteristics of real hardwood.

Some squeaking of hardwood floors is normal and is caused by seasonal weather and humidity changes.

Note: Carefully examine all hardwood floors during the Pre-Closing Orientation. Scratches, gouges, dents, and other damage will not be repaired after occupancy unless specifically noted on the Pre-Closing Check List.

Warranty Note: Hardwood flooring repairs requiring new material may not match the color of the existing material. It is normal to expect surface nailing to occur around the perimeter area of pre-finished hardwood floors, and around any repaired areas, as well.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

For hardwood floor cleaning and maintenance guidelines, please refer to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Use entrance rugs or mats to protect wood flooring from dirt and water spots. Mop up water spills immediately. Do not set potted plants directly on a hardwood floor as moisture can leak through and cause permanent staining and warpage.

Attach furniture protectors to the bottom of furniture legs to protect the hardwood flooring from scuffing and surface damage. Be aware that high heel shoes may damage hardwood floors.

Ceramic Tile Floors

Ceramic tile is easy to maintain and impervious to water. However, the seams and joints are not waterproof and require special attention to prevent water seepage.

Warranty Note: Ceramic tile floor repairs requiring new material may not match the color of the existing tile material or colored grouting. Color variations are normal.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Grout Sealing: Water can penetrate grout seams and joints, and will damage materials adjacent to and underneath the tile. This occurs when excessive amounts of water are used during floor washing, or in the bathroom from splashes and spills from showers, tubs and sinks. The homeowner can apply a silicone based grout sealer at move in time to reduce staining, mildew, and water penetration. Grout sealers are available at hardware stores and should be used following manufacturer’s guidelines.

Seam Caulking: The seam joints, where baseboard and tile meet, will crack and erode from normal settlement of the home. Inspect these areas frequently, and apply a silicone caulk to the joints as needed.

Floor Protection: Chipping, scratching, and cracking of floor tiles can be caused by putting heavy furniture directly onto the surface. Minimize this damage and reduce skidding by placing flat furniture protectors underneath furniture and wheels.

Framing And Carpentry

General Overview

Framing and carpentry with wood studs, beams, and joists creates the skeletal structure of the home.

Floor Framing

A horizontal wood or steel beam is set into the top of the framed or foundation walls. It is often supported between the walls by vertical wood or steel columns. This creates the base for the floor, walls and roof. Sill plates are secured to the top of the foundation walls. Then the floor trusses, or parallel wood beams, support the floors perpendicular to the center beam. Sub-flooring is then glued, screwed and nailed to the floor joists. A ¾” layer of Gypcrete, a lightweight concrete mixture, is also poured on top of the main level sub-floor of the upper condominium, above the ceiling to the lower home. The top and bottom chords of floor truss members are not to be cut.

Wall Framing

Pre-assembled wall panels, with framed openings for doors and windows, are then positioned on the sub-floor of each level.

Exterior Wall Sheathing

A structural grade sheathing is applied to reinforce the studs and improve the R-Value of the wall system.

Ceiling and Roof Framing

The underside of joists or floor trusses form the framing for the basement and first floor ceilings. Rafters or roof trusses form both the roof and the ceiling for the top floor.

Ceiling framing ties together opposite walls, supports the finished ceiling, and provides a base for a second story or attic. A horizontal series of joists frames the ceiling.

Roof framing on your Crosswinds home uses a pre-engineered truss system that supports the weight of the roof and can be used in combination with conventional ceiling and roof framing.

Warranty Caution: Attic access must be installed parallel to and in between the trusses. Roof trusses should not be cut to install attic stairs. This can structurally damage the integrity of the roof and will void your structural defect warranty. Storing items in the attic space on roof trusses may also void the warranty.

Roof Sheathing

Roof sheathing that covers the rafters or roof trusses provides structural integrity and serves as a base for the roofing materials.

Interior Walls And Ceilings

General Overview

Your Crosswinds home features two types of walls: load bearing and non-load bearing. Interior and exterior walls are constructed of 2 X 4 wood studs. Wall construction begins with the

placement of these wood studs set vertically at 16 or 24-inch intervals. Insulation is installed, and then the drywall is attached to the studs.

Warranty Caution: Any alteration of bearing walls may undermine the structure by reducing its load bearing or support capacity, and may void all structural defect warranties.

Insulation

Flexible batt insulation, in the form of fiberglass blankets, is commonly used in exterior walls, floors, ceilings, and around ducts. Blown insulation of loose fiberglass can be used in flat ceiling areas. Plastic foam may be used for spot insulation around windows and doors, pipe openings and other air leakage points.

Crosswinds standard insulation package meets or exceeds the applicable building codes at the time of construction.

Note: FHA and VA loans often require a higher grade insulation package than conventional loans. For additional information, please consult your mortgage lender.

R-Value

R-Value is an insulation measurement. The higher a material’s R-Value number, the more effective it is as an insulator. Different parts of the home have different insulation standards, and Crosswinds meets or exceeds local building requirements at the time of construction.

Drywall

Drywall is glued, and then screwed or nailed to the studs to create both ceiling and wall surfaces. The seams where sheets of drywall come together are taped, spackled with a joint compound, allowed to dry, and then sanded to prepare them for painting.

Warranty Note: Please do not write on walls or make other marks where drywall is to be repaired. Upon request, drywall repairs will be conducted one time during the warranty period by Crosswinds, at the time of your 11 month. After drywall repairs are made, it is the homeowner’s responsibility to sand and paint them. No repairs will be made to wallpapered or custom painted areas. Visible, minor drywall imperfections are normal.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Nail Pops and Drywall Repairs: Minor drywall cracks and nail pops on the interior wall and ceiling surfaces are caused by home settlement and the normal drying of stud framing and drywall materials. Nail pops are nails that come loose from the studs, pushing the drywall joint compound up to produce a bump on the drywall surface. Both nail pops and small drywall cracks are simple to repair:

Drywall Nail Pop and Crack Repair Instructions:

1. Reset the protruding nail slightly into the gypsum board surface or remove it entirely. Place another drywall nail two inches above or below the popped nail, and gently hammer it slightly

below the paper surface. Then cover the area with a spackling compound, allow to dry, sand smooth, and then re-paint the surface.

2. For drywall joint cracks, press a small “V” shaped indentation using the back of a putty knife along the length of the crack, about 1/8 inch deep and 1/8 inch wide. Spackle, sand, and repaint as with nail pops.

3. To prevent cracks wider than ¼ inch from reopening, first apply the spackling compound, cover the crack with a strip of drywall tape, add another top layer of spackle feathering the edges well, sand to a smooth finish, then re-paint.

4. Deep scratches and indentations on drywall surfaces can be filled with two or three applications of spackling compound. Allow to dry thoroughly, and sand between each application.

Wall Fasteners and Anchors

There are a variety of specially designed wall fasteners for drywall available from a hardware store. They offer strength in supporting an object, like a large framed picture, and yet create little damage should you choose to move the picture at a later date.

Planter Shelves

Planter shelves, also known as plant ledges, are architectural design features and should be used strictly to hold plants and other decorative objects. They are not constructed to support the weight of an adult or child.

Interior Trims And Moldings

Floor moldings, door casings, and other wood trims are details that can be found throughout your home. Some separation of wood trims and moldings is normal, and is caused by home settlement, plus shrinkage or expansion due to extremes of dryness or humidity.

Warranty Note: Crosswinds will only paint or stain the new material when repairing interior wood trim and molding. It is normal that the new material may not exactly match the color of existing material.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Should the baseboard trim come loose, simply re-nail the baseboard quarter-round back into proper position. For moldings, it’s better to wait for several months to see if settlement will bring the pieces back together naturally. If not, a separation at corners or seams can be patched with a wood filler and then stained or painted to match the existing molding.

Landscaping And Grading

Grading

The soil around each homesite is graded to channel storm water away from the home.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

The best way to keep the basement dry is to maintain positive drainage away from the foundation. Proper grading ensures that surface water will flow away from the home, rather than accumulating and soaking into the ground immediately around foundation walls.

Over time, the grade around the house can settle. If this occurs, spread additional soil in the depressions to raise and re-establish the grade.

To prevent erosion and ponding of water:

1. Do not alter the soil grade.

2. Keep water ditches or swales open and free of leaves and debris. Do not build sheds, hot tubs, decks, fences, pools, or gardens in the swales. Otherwise, water may not flow properly through the swale.

3. Direct water run-off away from the home to prevent washouts. Reposition splash blocks if they are moved. Do not allow sprinklers to wet the house or form puddles near or against the foundation.

4. Alterations of swales may create problems with local government inspection agencies.

5. All soil erosion prevention controls must remain in place until vegetation is established.

Lawn

After your lot is graded, you or your landscape contractor will need to remove debris and rake the ground surface prior to installing grass seed or sod. At this time, it may be necessary to fill any depressions from settlement or erosion. We recommend that you put down a layer of topsoil prior to seeding or laying sod.

Note: Topsoil is defined as friable, fertile soil containing some organic material and free of sand, clay lumps, roots, sticks and other foreign material.

Trees

If a street tree is provided in the easement on your homesite, you are still responsible for the care of that tree. The first six to nine months are the most crucial for new plantings.

Any new street tree that is dead, will be replaced one time, unless damage is caused by homeowner transplanting, under or over watering, or by insects.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Watering: It is extremely important that new trees be watered twice a week for the first month and once a week for the next three months. This should be done with an open end garden hose, approximately three to four minutes on trees. For best results, contact a nursery or lawn care specialist for proper maintenance guidelines.

Mirrors

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Clean mirrors with a spray glass cleaner and use a soft cloth or even newspaper, wiping several times to remove all glass cleaner residue. Do not use abrasive cleaners which all permanently scratch and mar mirror surfaces.

Note: Carefully examine all mirrors during the Pre-Closing Orientation. Scratches, gouges, dents, and other damage will not be repaired after occupancy unless specifically noted on the Pre-Closing Check List.

Bathroom Maintenance

Mildew

Moisture and mildew problems can occur in any room where water vapor is present. To reduce mildew, turn on the exhaust fan or slightly open a window when bathing. Wipe off wet tiles when done, then hang up towels and washcloths to dry. To clean mildewed surfaces and reduce mildew

odors, apply a liquid mildew agent in a well-ventilated room, followed by a disinfectant and thorough rinsing with clear water.

Soap Scum

In some geographic areas, “hard water” or water that is high in mineral content, can contribute to soap scum buildup. To clean and remove this residue, wash the affected surfaces with a mild vinegar and water solution.

Rust Stains

The contact of wet metal on sink surfaces, for example, the bottom of a shaving can, may produce rust stains. To remove them, apply a powdered rust remover following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Painting

Interior Paint

Pre-Closing Orientation Check List: Carefully examine all painted surfaces during the Pre-Closing Orientation. Paint with scuffs and dirt marks will not be repaired after occupancy unless specifically noted on the Pre-Closing Check List.

Warranty Note: Repairs requiring new painting may not match the color of the existing material. Paint repairs may show slight variations in color as a result of weathering, aging, smoke from tobacco, or pigment variations in different paint manufacturing runs. Color variations are normal.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Cleaning Flat Latex Painted Surfaces: A lead-free latex paint is applied to the interior walls of the home. This is not a scrubbable paint and will smudge if cleaned. Crosswinds does not recommend washing these surfaces, but instead suggests using the supplied touch-up paint to cover paint scuffs and marks.

Cleaning Semi-Gloss Latex Painted Surfaces: A lead-free semi-gloss latex paint is applied to interior wood trim and doors. These surfaces may be cleaned with a sponge and lukewarm water. The less moisture on the sponge, the better. Wipe quickly with a gentle washing pressure from top

to bottom without allowing the solution to run down the door or trim. If the water does not work, try the same procedure using a small amount of mild detergent mixed with water. Once complete, lightly rinse the washed area with plain water and allow to dry.

Plumbing System

General Overview

A licensed Plumbing Contractor installed all plumbing lines and systems in your Crosswinds home.

The plumbing system throughout your home consists of PVC (poly-vinyl-chloride) piping. It’s a relatively quiet system and has a high resistance to corrosion. Also, fire hazards are reduced during installation because no torches or soldering is required.

In most cases, minimum homeowner maintenance is all that the plumbing system requires. Attending to small problems as they occur keeps them from becoming larger, more costly ones.

Warranty Caution: Any addition, alteration, or modification to the original plumbing system installation, even if performed by a licensed Plumbing Contractor and inspected by the local authorities, voids all applicable warranties.

Note: It is important to immediately notify your Plumbing Contractor should a leak occur, since leak damage resulting from homeowner delay is considered negligence.

Water Lines

The pipes that carry water into the home are designed to resist rust and corrosion.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Noisy Pipes: Noisy water pipes should be corrected immediately since the resulting vibrations can damage plumbing line fittings and cause them to leak. There is one exception: Exterior hose faucets often produce a high pitched noise caused by an attached vacuum breaker or back-flow preventer. This noise is normal and is not cause for concern.

Noisy pipe problems can be identified and corrected as follows:

1. The water heater temperature may be set too high, producing steam in the pipes. To resolve, gradually reduce the water heater temperature settling until the steam is reduced.

2. Abruptly turning off a faucet in areas with high water pressure can produce a pounding or knocking sound. To resolve, slightly close the main shut-off valve. If problems continue, please contact a Plumbing Contractor for repair.

3. Air can get into the pipes. To resolve, open all interior and exterior faucets and run for a few minutes, allowing all air to pass through the system. It is not necessary to open exterior faucets if they have been winterized.

Frozen Pipes: Prevention is the best cure.

1. Winterizing Pipes: At the beginning of each winter, turn off the outside faucets and then bleed out excess water from the lines. See winterizing instructions under Exterior Hosebibs in the Plumbing Fixtures section of this manual.

2. During extremely cold weather conditions, keep pipes from freezing by allowing the faucets to drip slightly.

3. Do not leave the home or any room without heat during cold weather, as water in the pipes may freeze causing the pipe to burst.

Drain Pipes

Every plumbing fixture in the home is equipped with a drain trap that holds water and acts as a barrier to keep airborne bacteria and sewer gas fumes from coming back into the home. If a sink or bathtub fixture is not used frequently, turn it on periodically to replace evaporating water and to keep the water trap barrier intact.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Cautions: Do not pour grease into drains or toilets, or use caustic sodas to open plugged drains. Do not use a plunger when using any drain cleaning chemicals. When using a chemical drain cleaner, carefully follow the manufacturer’s safety precautions and product directions.

Sanitary Sewer Lines

In the final stages of preparing your home for move-in, Crosswinds tested and flushed the sewer lines to ensure they were clear and working properly.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Do not put hair, grease, lint, garbage, heavy tissue, disposable diapers, or sanitary materials into the sewer system.

When operating the garbage disposal, always use a generous amount of cold water to keep the sink drain clear and the disposal motor cool.

Plumbing Fixtures

General Overview

The plumbing fixtures in your Crosswinds home include the water heater, sump pump, bathtubs, showers, toilets, sinks, and faucets.

Pre-Closing Orientation Check List: Carefully examine all bathtubs, showers, toilets, and sinks during the Pre-Closing Orientation. Scratches, chips, and cracks will not be repaired after occupancy unless specifically noted on the Pre-Closing Orientation.

Warranty Caution: Any addition, alteration, or modification to the water heater, sump pump, or plumbing fixture installation, even if performed by a licensed Plumbing Contractor, voids all applicable warranties.

Note: As equipment technology changes frequently, the Manufacturer’s Service Manuals will supersede all recommendations and procedures contained in this manual.

Water Heater

The electric or gas water heater is equipped with an automatic temperature and pressure relief valve, a safety feature that opens and releases excessive pressure or heat build-up. Should this occur, water will flow from the tank until both temperature and pressure are reduced to safe levels. Please contact the Plumbing Contractor for adjustments should this occur.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Hot Water Temperature: Water temperatures ranging from 125 degrees Fahrenheit to 145 degrees Fahrenheit are pre-set at the factory, as specified in the Manufacturer’s Service Manual. While lower settings reduce utility operating costs, bear in mind that dishwashers do not sanitize properly with settings below 125 degrees Fahrenheit. Most gas water heaters feature a “vacation setting” switch to reduce costs while you are away, without completely shutting the water heater off.

Do not store combustible items, oily rags, clothing, brooms, or dust mops near the water heater, since this obstructs air flow and presents a potential fire hazard.

Sump Pump

The sump pump in your home is a part of a drainage system designed to carry water away from the underside of the home. The pump pit is located in and area just beneath the foundation. As water accumulates in the pit, the pump automatically turns on and pumps the water out and away from the house. To test the pump for proper operation, simply pour water into the pit. Clean the sump pump annually by pouring a disinfectant into it, then flushing with a small amount of water. Always disconnect the sump pump electrical connection before doing and work or repairs.

Porcelain Fixtures

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

To clean, use a non-abrasive spray cleanser and sponge.

Dropping heavy objects onto porcelain can chip or crack

the surface, and may produce permanent staining.

Be aware that continuous action toilet bowl cleansers,

placed in toilet water tank, can prematurely wear out the

rubber tank flapper and discolor the bowl.

Kitchen Sink

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

For routine cleaning, use a non-abrasive household cleanser with warm water and a sponge. Do not scrape the surface with utensils, pots or pans. Do not leave leftovers in sink or drainer, particularly tea bags, which contain harmful acids. Washing soda, not baking soda, should be added to the drain to keep it grease and soap free.

Do not clean stainless steel sinks with steel wool or metal brushes, and do not leave rubber mats in the sink since they trap water and produce surface discoloration. To restore luster to stainless steel, apply a small amount of mineral oil with a soft cloth, then wipe dry.

Bathroom Sinks

HOMEOWNER’S MAINTENANCE GUIDELINES

Sink surfaces can be easily chipped and stained, so

treat accordingly. Prevent hair accumulation clogs by

periodically removing the stopper for cleaning. Avoid

setting lit cigarettes on the edge of the sink, as they will

burn and permanently damage the surface.

Bathtubs And Tub-Shower Combinations

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Cleaning: Clean fiberglass tub-shower combinations and shower stall floors with warm water and a non-abrasive cleanser. Clean glass shower doors with a commercial glass cleaner. Check bathtub stoppers and shower floor drain grates for hair accumulation.

Do not step into a bathtub or tub-shower with shoes on. Gritty particles adhere to shoe soles and will scratch the enamel.

Re-caulking of Tubs and Showers: Over time, cracks and separations between tub or shower stall and wall surfaces or bathroom floors will appear. Maintaining these areas is critical since excessive moisture can severely damage underlying materials.

It will be necessary to re-apply a tub and tile caulk when the previous caulking has dried out or eroded. To re-caulk the area, use a tub and tile caulk available in local hardware stores. Do not use a clear silicone caulk. Begin by removing the old caulk and cleaning the area. Once the area is dry, apply fresh caulking to fill the vacant space, then smooth out the finish with a wet finger.

Interior Faucets

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Single-Lever Faucets: The single-lever kitchen and bath faucet are low maintenance, washer-less faucets. Should the cartridge ever need to be replaced, turn off the water supply under the

sink, remove the handle assembly, and unscrew the cartridge. Take the cartridge to a local plumbing supplier and match accordingly, being sure to follow installation instructions.

Washer Faucets: A washer faucet has a shut-off feature that requires light closing pressure to stop the flow of water. Do not apply too much pressure since washers can be damaged.

Fault Aerators: Screened aerators screw into the spout of a faucet to add air to the flowing water and to reduce splashing and water consumption. Aerators are easy to remove for a periodic cleaning, and this should be done every three to four months.

Washer Replacement: Dripping faucets can dramatically increase water bills and represent the loss of a valuable natural resource. Over time, all washers will wear out and must be replaced.

Neglecting to change washers may cause damage to the valve seat or to the entire faucet. Many homeowners prefer to do this simple replacement procedure themselves.

Exterior Hosebibs

Exterior faucets, called hosebibs, allow you the convenience of a water source for the exterior of your building.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Standard Hosebibs: Conventional exterior hosebibs require winterizing. This procedure must be performed prior to the first frost to avoid rupture or bursting of the water pipes. Disconnect hoses to drain all exterior water prior to the first winter frost. Check for leaks and replace washers as required since a leaking exterior faucet can cause a damp basement. See Washer Replacement under Interior Faucets, this Section.

Water Back-Flow Prevention: Some Crosswinds homes have a vacuum breaker installed on the exterior hose faucet. This device prevents back-flow and stops contaminated water from flowing back into the home water supply system via the garden hose. These devices are a plumbing code requirement and may not be removed.

With a vacuum breaker installed, it is normal to hear a humming or vibrating noise throughout the home when the exterior faucet is in use. This is caused by the array of washers built into the back-flow preventor, and is not cause for concern.

Roofing, Gutters, and Downspouts

General Overview

The roof of your Crosswinds home is constructed with roofing felt, shingles, flashing, ridge vents, gutters and downspouts. These materials are installed following manufacturer’s guidelines and product specifications.

Warranty Note: Shingle repairs requiring new material may not match the color of the existing material. Color variations caused by weathering are normal.

Manufacturer Warranties: Fiberglass shingles are protected by Manufacturer Warranties that may extend beyond the Crosswinds Warranty.

Shingles

Roofing felt is attached to the roof sheathing,

and fiberglass shingles are laid over the felt.

The underside of both fiberglass and asphalt

shingles have a mastic or glue applied to it that,

when warmed by the sun, automatically seals the

upper shingle to the one beneath it.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Shingle Inspections: Severe winds may cause some fiberglass shingles to lift slightly, however they will settle back into position during warmer weather. Visually, check the roof (from the

ground) after bad storms to determine if shingles are torn, broken or missing, and have a roofing contractor immediately replace them to prevent water penetration and damage.

Antenna Precautions: Do not walk on the roof except when absolutely necessary. Do not nail objects to the roof or face nail loose shingles. Seal fasteners holding television antennas with caulk.

Flashing

Roof flashings are sheet metal trims used around roof openings on chimneys, vents, valleys, and skylights. Their purpose is to channel water onto the shingles.

Ridge Vents

The ridge vent is located at the peak or top ridge of the roof, and serves to ventilate the heat that builds up in the attic. As the hot air rises out of the ridge vent, cooler air is drawn into the attic through the soffit vents. Keep obstructions away from the vent openings.

Skylights

Periodic inspection by a roofing contractor to repair caulking and check flashing will ensure that the skylight remains weather tight.

Gutters and Downspouts

Gutters prevent water from seeping into the interior walls of the home, channeling rain water run-off from the roof to downspouts that guide the water to ground level drainage areas you should use. Splash blocks located at the base of the downspouts divert water away from the foundation. See Water Infiltration and Condensation Section.

Homeowner Maintenance Guidelines:

Gutters and downspouts should be inspected and cleaned annually. Be sure to check for holes and leakage, make necessary repairs, and clear the gutters of accumulated debris such as leaves, twigs, branches, balls, and other objects.

Gutters need to slope slightly downward to channel water to the downspout. Splash blocks should be properly positioned at the bottom of the downspout to direct water away from the foundation. Finally, the soil grade must slope away from the home. See Grading in the Landscaping and Grading Section.

Winter storms followed by mild temperatures followed by more winter storms can produce “freeze-thaw cycles” resulting in sizable accumulations of ice and snow on the roof. These are called “ice dams.” The ice build-up in the rain gutters, and the pressure and movement of the ice, may cause roof damage and water leakage into the home during a thaw.

Water Infiltration And Condensation

General Overview

To reduce water infiltration at foundations, Crosswinds implemented several important precautions during the construction and grading process of your home.

The foundation is sprayed with a material that is water-resistant but not waterproof. A drain around the interior perimeter of the foundation is installed to carry off any water that might penetrate the structure. In some instances, an exterior perimeter drain is also installed. The grade around the building’s exterior was carefully engineered and constructed to divert water away from the foundation. See Foundations in the Concrete Section, and Grading in the Landscaping and Grading Section.

Note: Water leakage caused by homeowner neglect or a homeowner change in the exterior soil grade that causes the infiltration will not be repaired. Crosswinds will inspect the situation and explain a proper course of action that the homeowner can implement to correct the problem.

Homeowner Maintenance Guidelines:

Controlling Foundation Water Infiltration: The following guidelines, when implemented, will help control and prevent water infiltration problems:

1. Water infiltration problems caused by improper grade should immediately be corrected by the homeowner. Use dry dirt to immediately fill soil depressions that form close to the foundation.

2. Do not change the established grade and drainage pattern when installing landscaping. Ensure that drainage away from the foundation is definite, yet gradual.

3. Do not spray the foundation directly with lawn sprinklers. Make certain that hose fittings are firmly secured and not leaking at the hosebib connection.

4. Do not plant trees and shrubs too close to the foundation. Check with a Landscape Contractor or nursery to determine the root characteristics of plantings so that root growth will not undermine the foundation or driveways and sidewalks. Be aware that new plantings require substantial amounts of water and that plants too close to the foundation will therefore place additional amounts of water against the walls.

Condensation

Condensation, or the appearance of moisture that occurs when warm moist air comes into contact with a colder surface, is prevalent in new homes. This is caused by the large quantities of water used to build the home, from the concrete foundations to the paint on the walls. As this water evaporates, and the drying-out process occurs, the moisture takes the form of condensation on interior windows, foundation walls, and plumbing pipes.

For homes built during the winter, the exterior frozen ground will hold moisture longer than dry or wet ground. As the ground thaws, this moisture can raise the level of humidity in the surrounding basement air, causing even more condensation.

Another source of indoor humidity is everyday water usage. For example, a family of four doing the laundry, bathing, and running the dishwasher, puts approximately 2 to 5 gallons of moisture into the air everyday.

Window condensation is produced by conditions beyond Crosswinds control and is not covered under warranty.

See Bathroom Maintenance in the Bathroom Section, and Moisture Control in the Concrete Section.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Ventilation: Proper ventilation is the safe and steady way to reduce indoor humidity and condensation.

1. During warm dry weather, open windows, and close them when outside humidity is high.

2. Ensure that the clothes dryer is properly vented to the outside and that the vent is clear of obstructions and lint.

3. Kitchen, bath, and utility exhaust fans can be used to carry moist air outside. Use the fans for short time periods since they exhaust conditioned air out of the home.

4. Adjust the registers to maintain even temperatures throughout the home.

5. Do not use kerosene space heaters or any other type of unvented gas heater. These devices add significant amounts of moisture to the air.

Do not try to speed up the evaporation process by creating extremely high temperatures in the wintertime. This may cause the house to dry out unevenly, creating cracks and other problems.

Windows

General Overview

The windows in your Crosswinds home are made of double-pane insulated glass to minimize energy loss and are framed in aluminum, wood, or vinyl-clad wood.

Pre-Closing Orientation Check List: Carefully examine all windows and glass during the Pre-Closing Orientation. Glass that is broken, scratched, or chipped will not be repaired after occupancy unless specifically noted on the Pre-Closing Orientation.

Homeowner’s Maintenance Guidelines:

Cleaning Window Glass: Clean windows with a commercial glass cleaner or a cup of vinegar mixed with a gallon of warm water. Apply with a sponge or lint-free cloth, then dry and polish with paper towel or newspaper. A rubber squeegee passed over glass surfaces will speed the drying and eliminate streaking.

Vinyl Windows: For easy operation, keep the sill and side tracks clean.

Window Condensation: The appearance of moisture that occurs when warm moist air comes in contact with a colder surface is called condensation. While moisture may appear on windows, this does not indicate a window problem. The most common cause is humid air inside the home hitting the cold surface of the window glass.

To reduce indoor humidity and condensation, review the Water Infiltration and Condensation Section, and implement the Ventilation Maintenance Guidelines.

Be aware that high indoor humidity, in combination with extremely cold weather, can turn window condensation into ice. Do not forcefully open windows or patio glass doors that freeze shut, as this will bend the frames and tracks.

Window Screens: Window screens are provided with every Crosswinds home, and their sole purpose is to help prevent insects from coming inside when the windows are open. Window screens may be washed and rinsed using a mild household detergent.

SAFETY CAUTION: Window screens will not prevent children from falling through open windows to the ground below. The screen is not a barrier, and the fastening system for the screen will not support any weight beyond the screen itself. Crosswinds strongly advises that homeowners never allow children near an open screened window, place any weight on, or push against a window screen. Similarly, do not place furniture near windows as furniture may allow children access to the window.

We want the Crosswinds Homeowner Manual to be responsive to your needs as a homeowner. If you have suggestions on ways to make this manual more useful, topics you think should be added, or information we should clarify, please write down your comments and mail or fax them to our main office at 248/615-4129. We appreciate your thoughts and thank you for buying a Crosswinds home.

Crosswinds Communities Homeowner’s Manual

Glossary

Aerator: A small, removable extension at the tip of a sink faucet, with air ports and

screen, that mix streaming water with air to reduce splashing and conserve water.

Air Filter: A removable or replaceable filter located adjacent to the furnace fan which

reduces dust in the air circulating through the HVAC system.

Air Hammer: A banging noise in plumbing pipes

Alkali: A soluble mineral salt or mixture of salts capable of neutralizing acids.

Asphalt: A bituminous substance used for paving.

Asphalt Sealer: Typically a petroleum based substance used to seal and protect asphalt

surfaces from water penetration.

Baffle: A type of insulation used to deflect and regulate fluid, light and sound flow.

Ball Cock: A device in flush toilets consisting of a value connected by a lever with a

floating ball. The valve shuts when the ball is raised, and opens when the ball is

lowered.

Baseboard: A decorative and protective wood molding positioned where the wall meets

the floor.

Caulk: A flexible, putty-like material used to fill joints and seams to make them watertight.

Chimney Cap: An exterior metal cover placed above chimneys to help reduce rain and

water penetration into the fireplace.

Circuit Breaker: A switching device, located in the main electrical panel, that opens and

closes electrical circuits. Circuit breakers automatically shut off electricity to the

circuit should it become overloaded. Once the electrical load is reduced, the

breaker switch can be turned back on to resume normal service.

Coaxial Cable: A transmission line that consists of a tube of electrically conducting

material surrounding a central conductor held in place by insulators; used to

transmit telephone and television signals.

Concrete Dusting: A fine dust that accumulates on finished concrete surfaces.

Condensation: The appearance of moisture that occurs when warm, moist air comes into

contact with a colder surface.

Condenser: An exterior unit that is part of the air conditioning system which expels heat

into the outside air.

Corner Bead: An angled metal edging used to protect and form an edge where drywall

panels meet at outside edges.

Cornice: An architectural ornament usually used on overhangs and ridges.

Damper: An adjustable valve in the duct work of the heating system that can be opened

or closed to control the flow of air conditioned or heated air throughout the home.

Also, a device in a fireplace or gas heater that controls the air draft up the

chimney.

Dehumidifier: An electrical appliance that removes humidity from the air. Particularly

useful in basement areas during summer.

Delamination: The separation of the top plies or laminate from the base to which they are

attached. In vanity and kitchen countertops, the warping or detachment of

laminate material from the wood substrate.

Door Wall: Also known as patio or sliding doors.

Drywall: Also known as gypsum board or sheet rock, these large sheets are attached to

the wall studs and ceiling framing to construct the walls and ceilings of the home.

Drain Tile: Perforated pipe that collects and drains water from around the foundation

perimeter, draining to the sump crock.

Efflorescence: A white powdery substance that can form on new block or brick. It is

composed of water soluble salts that are present in masonry materials and that

rise to the surface via water evaporation.

Face Frame: The front of kitchen and bathroom cabinets, to which the hinged doors

attach.

Face Nailing: Nailing through a finished, exposed surface so that the flat top of the nail

head is still visible after nailing.

Fascia: The exterior horizontal trim, that can also be positioned directly behind gutters

and over gable trim boards.

Fillers: A wood putty used in preparation for painting to fill holes or cracks.

Filler Board: Cabinet grade wood used to fill gaps that occur between cabinets and wall

openings.

Flashing: Flat sheet metal inserted under roof shingles at overhangs and vent pipes, and

above windows, skylights, and door frames to keep rain water from penetrating

the house structure.

Flue: A vertical duct, constructed of sheet metal that channels smoke or gas fumes from

a fireplace or gas furnace out of the home.

Footing/Footer: The concrete base that provides support for the walls, chimneys, and

general structure of the home.

Fish Scales: Style of textured siding for the exterior of the home.

Gable: The vertical triangular end of the home from eaves to peak.

Gabled Louvers: A vent with louvers located at the peak of gable ends.

Graphite Lubricant: A finely powdered graphite used as a lubricant.

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI): A specialized electrical device that will

interrupt electrical power where a weak electrical loss of ground occurs.

Normally installed in areas where water may be present.

Grout: A plaster-like mortar compound used to fill spaces between ceramic tiles.

Header: A wood member that spans open spaces in walls, over doors and windows, and

provides support to structural members above it.

Honeycomb: In concrete, an open cell-like surface texture that occurs while pouring the

concrete.

Hosebib: The exterior faucet connection for lawn and garden hoses. Also known as

spicket and sillcock.

Humidifier: A device for supplying or maintaining humidity.

I, J

Insulation: A variety of fiberglass or foam materials used to reduce the loss of heated or

air conditioned air from the home and to reduce outside air infiltration.

Joint Compound: A plaster-like compound used to finish drywall seams and cover

fastener heads.

Joists: The horizontal support members used to construct floors and ceilings.

Lattice: Decorative, “thatched style” trim for the exterior of the home.

Lockset: A door lock or combination of lock and deadbolt.

Louver: A device for controlling air flow.

Mastic: A water resistant construction adhesive used predominantly for installation of

ceramic and resilient tiles.

Masonry Wall Ties: The metal pieces that tie masonry veneer to the frame of the home.

Also, when pouring concrete, the metal pieces that hold the concrete foundation

wall forms in place until the concrete cures.

Moldings: Decorative wood finishes used around doors and windows. Also may be used for base molding, tile molding, chair rails, and for exterior area molding.

N, O, P

Nail Pops: A nail that comes loose from a stud and pushes joint compound through

drywall. Nail pops are caused by normal wood shrinkage and home settlement.

Oriented Strand Board (O.S.B): Used for floor decking, wall sheathing and roof decking.

Pea Stone: Granulated stone material used around the perimeter of the foundation walls

as a preventative for foundation leaks.

Pile: Carpet yarns/fibers that form raised loops which are cut and sheared.

Pointing: The filling and finishing of brick mortar and stone cement masonry joints.

Ponding: The collection of water on driveways, walkways, or lawns.

Radon: A radioactive, gaseous element formed by the disintegration of radium.

Rafters or Roof Trusses: Form both the roof and the ceiling for the top floor of the

home.

R-Board: Sheathing material with a measured R-Value.

R-Value: Unit of measure (insulation factor) applied to the resistance of heat transfer.

Refractory: A heat-resisting ceramic material contained in fireplaces.

Resilient: Vinyl flooring used in areas such as kitchens, halls, bathrooms, and laundry

rooms.

Ridge Vent: An open vent system located along roof peaks, which in conjunction with

soffit vents, create a natural air ventilation.

Rod Holes: Holes left as a result of the forming process of poured concrete walls.

Sash: Moveable or fixed window component.

Scaling: In concrete, the breaking away of the top surface of the concrete, caused by a

freeze thaw cycle. In painting, this is the flaking or peeling away of paint.

Scuttle: Access panel.

Settlement Crack: Cracks in concrete caused by slight home settlement, or expansion

and contraction caused by temperature and moisture fluctuations.

Sewer Cleanout: A removable plug used to access the homes’ main sewer pipe for

cleaning purposes.

Silicone: A synthetic lubricating compound with high resistance to temperature change

and water. When added to caulking, it extends elasticity properties and increases

the life of the caulking.

Sill Cock: Also known as spiggot.

Sill Plates: A support member laid on top of the foundation wall that serves as a base for

the wall framing.

Silt Fence: Material used to control soil erosion.

Slab-on-grade: Refers to concrete poured directly on top of the soil to create the garage

floor.

Soffit/Soffit Vent: Located under the ceiling of a roof overhang to allow air flow.

Soot: A black substance formed by combustion consisting chiefly of carbon found on the

sides of fireplaces.

Spackle: See joint compound.

Spalling: Flaking or chipping of stone or other masonry material. Similar to scaling, but

the chips and flakes are larger.

Sparker Unit: Eliminates pilot light in gas stoves and furnaces.

Stiles: Also known as face framing.

Striker Plate: The metal plate that keeps a door latch firmly in place.

Sub-flooring: Wood sheet flooring directly over the joists that supports the underlayment

or floor covering.

Sump Pump: A motorized pump that expels excessive water accumulation that gathers

under the home foundation.

Surface Capping: The addition of another layer of similar material over the top of the

existing material.

Swale: The soil contour on a building lot deliberately shaped to channel rain water away

from the home.

Tack Strips: A wood strip with exposed tack points that is attached to sub-flooring and

holds stretched wall-to-wall carpet in position.

Thermocouple: A safety device for gas powered equipment that will not allow the unit to

be turned on unless the pilot light is burning.

T.J.I.: Name brand engineered truss system.

Topsoil: Friable, fertile soil of a clay loam base. To contain between 5% and 20% organic material and have a pH range between 5.0 and 7.0. It shall also be free from clay lumps, coarse sand, roots, sticks, rocks and other foreign materials. This is not to be confused with “black dirt” or potting soil.

Trusses: Engineered wood structural members used to construct floors and roofs.

U, V

Underlayment: A flooring layer over the base sub-flooring, over which tile or resilient

floor covering is laid.

Vacuum Breaker: Also called a back flow preventer, this device can be placed on

exterior faucets to allow water to only flow out of the home.

Valve Seat: An interior part of the faucet valve assembly where the valve rests.

Washers: A round, rigid rubber or plastic disc used as a sealing device in water faucet

valves.

Washouts: An area where water has produced soil erosion.

Weatherstripping: A weather insulating strip of material placed around doors and

windows to reduce water entry into the home. Also reduces air infiltration into the

home or escape of conditioned air out of the home.

Weep Holes: A hole in the foundation wall designed to drain off accumulated water.

Window Balance: A counter balance device in window housings that assists with the

opening and closing of a window, and then keeps the window in position.